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Lawn · Fall

When Should I Stop Mowing My Lawn for the Year?

Colorado lawns do not follow a calendar. Here is how to decide when the mower can finally go away for winter.

September 30, 20264 min read

There is no magic last-mow date for Colorado Springs. The better question is whether the grass is still actively growing.

Cool-season lawns such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue can keep growing well into fall when soil temperatures and moisture are favorable. That means one yard may need another mowing while another nearby lawn is effectively finished for the year.

Let the grass tell you when it is done

CSU Extension recommends mowing based on growth and height rather than the number of days since the last mowing. Their preferred mowing height for Colorado turf is generally 2.5 to 3 inches, and they specifically advise against mowing the lawn shorter in late fall.

A useful rule is to follow the one-third guideline: avoid removing more than about one-third of the grass blade at a time. As growth slows, the time between mowings naturally gets longer. When the lawn stops gaining meaningful height, you are done.

Do not scalp the lawn for winter

Cutting turf very short before winter used to be common advice, but shorter is not better. Leaving an appropriate amount of leaf tissue helps the plant continue photosynthesis and maintain a healthier crown and root system.

For most irrigated cool-season lawns around Colorado Springs, keeping your normal mowing height through the final cut is the simple approach.

What about leaves?

A final mowing can also be a useful time to shred a light layer of leaves into the turf. CSU Extension notes that finely mulched leaves can add organic matter and do not inherently create thatch. If you can still see plenty of grass through the leaves, they can often be chopped with a mower instead of bagged.

Sources & further reading

These Field Notes translate Colorado horticultural guidance into practical homeowner language. For the underlying recommendations, start with the original CSU Extension resources: